Coffee, Art, and Satan

It only took about half a day for Melbourne, the first stop in my Australia tour, to become one of my favorite cities. I stayed in St Kilda, a backpacker neighborhood along the beach. It’s about six kilometers from the city center, but riding the monorail is quick and intuitive, and if I’m not sure where I’m going, there’s free wifi throughout much of the city to help me get where I want to be.

The whole city is under construction, investing in infrastructure and rapidly expanding as they work to attract tourists and new residents alike. It’s much larger than I was expecting it to be—not quite the size of Sydney, but still full of skyscrapers (with many more under construction and soon to be open).

The architecture in Melbourne gives the city a unique vibe, featuring a combination of modern buildings such as the ACMI combined with old gothic and Victorian-style buildings such as St Paul’s Cathedral. It sounds like a mess but there is something about Melbourne that makes the two different worlds feel like they fit together.

Melbourne is well known for is its graffiti and street art. To support local art and culture (and to prevent illegal graffiti), Melbourne has designated multiple city blocks for the specific purpose of being used for street art. It’s created a thriving art community, and the same street will look completely different a week later as artists continue painting and repainting over old art.

There is no prerequisite for adding your own street art—it’s open to everyone—however, there is street art etiquette. If you’re going to paint over someone else’s art, you better make sure that whatever you put up is better. More well-known and respected artists obviously last longer than new or unknown artists, but in general, it seems that people respect the unwritten rules of the game. The street art scene in Melbourne gives the city a vibrant character and if I didn’t love it yet, I definitely did after taking a street art tour throughout the city.

Melbourne is known for having the best coffee in the world, and I had caffeine jitters for the majority of my time there. It’s also home to unique bars and restaurants.

Naked for Satan

This Basque restaurant is mostly known for its impressive rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking Melbourne’s CBD, but it’s the history and décor that drew me in. The downstairs bar features industrial lighting and posh, red seating. As you walk up to the next floor, the walls are lined with endless vintage photos of shirtless men and pinup models.

The restaurant gets its name from its founder Leon Satanovich, nicknamed ‘Satan’, who brewed vodka during the depression. His moonshining process was secret, so anyone who came to assist would use the catchphrase ‘Let’s Get Naked for Satan’, a reference to the fact that Satanovich would brew vodka almost completely naked during the summer months when the heat became unbearable. You can read the full story here: https://www.nakedforsatan.com/au/our-story

Polly Bar

Polly Bar is my favorite cocktail bar, period. If the cocktails weren’t so pricey (and rightfully so—they’re delicious), I could easily waste a day there. The bar features a combination of classy cocktails, cigars, and décor that would put Jay Gatsby to shame. Velvet red couches, garish wallpaper, and opulent, mismatched lighting make this place absolutely unforgettable. It helps that my gin cocktail, complete with smoldering sage, was just as memorable.

I was only in Melbourne for a few days, but that was enough time for me to fall in love with the city.

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