The most popular method for backpackers traveling from Thailand to Laos is the slow boat. I’d heard very mixed reviews on the experience so I decided to see for myself. I booked the trip through my hostel but did not receive much (ie, any) information about what I was getting myself into or where I would be staying. All I knew was a van would pick me up from my hostel between 6:30-7 am to begin my three-day journey to Luang Prabang.
Day 1
The drive down from Pai was not quite as nauseating as the way up but was far from pleasant. After two hours in the van, I was shuffled out of that packed van and into another packed van, where we rode another four hours to Chiang Rai, where we stopped every thirty minutes so the driver could have a smoke break.
Chiang Rai is most notably home to the White Temple, and it did not disappoint. If you took Frozen and Cthtulu lore and smashed them together, you’d get something like this castle. Flaming skulls, monstrous sea creatures, and gothic architecture make up this structure. It was by far my favorite and most unique temple I saw in Southeast Asia.
I have literally no idea what it’s for.
After 10 hours of shuffling around Thailand, we finally made it to Chiang Khong, the border between Thailand and Laos. At this point, I was given a card that noted my accommodation for that night, and that my meals would be included. I was dropped off at my hostel, a very suspect and dilapidated building. I was the last person to check-in and a private room was the only room available. This would be the only good thing about this place. My Thai sim card thought I had arrived in Laos and stopped working, the bed was harder than the concrete floor, and the bathroom was covered in small black beetles. I was grateful that I would only be there for a night and wasn’t sure what I was expecting when this whole three-day excursion cost me sixtyUSD.
You get what you pay for.
At least the view was nice.
Day 2
After a poor night’s sleep, I was looking forward to an eight-hour—it was a ‘slow boat’ after all. A small group of us headed to the border, which is the most inefficient customs/immigration process I’ve ever been through. There weren’t many people (thanks Coronavirus!) but it took two hours nonetheless. First, an overcrowded Tuk Tuk led to the border, where I waited in line to go through customs. Thankfully, my passport stamp was legit so I didn’t have any problems. I stood in line to buy a bus ticket, which only costs about one USD. The ride feels ridiculous as the bridge is a maximum five-minute walk, but it is illegal to cross on foot. The shady ticket booth also offered to exchange USD for Lao Kip, which I did because at this point the whole thing feels pretty shoddy and I’m not sure that I’ll even be able to find a legitimate currency exchange before I get to Laos (fun fact – there wasn’t one and I was so happy I did this).
I get on the overcrowded bus with no seats left, ignoring all of the ‘buckle up’ signs as I stood in the aisle. We arrive at Laos immigration, and I receive two poorly translated immigration forms for Laos to fill out. I fill out about 60% of it, as much as I could understand, and then stand (surprise!) in another line where they check my papers and take my passport. I must have filled out the important info because they told me to move onto yet ANOTHER line where I wait to get my passport back. Once I receive it, I grab all of my things and head to – you guessed it – another line. This line is where they do a final passport check and you pay the visa fee. My crisp, USD that I took out in Cambodia for some reason ALL had a small, pen mark in the corner, so I had to use my kip to cross (so happy I exchanged it). Then, I go wait for the van to finally take me to the boat.
It’s already been a day.
Thankfully, the pier for the Slow Boat was easy to navigate. Food and drink vendors lined the shore, and I joined a group of ten or so Canadians and Spaniards in filling a cooler with beer, sandwiches, and water. The eight-hour boat ride proved to be an eight-hour-long party. I didn’t get the nap I wanted, but I had a lot of fun. The boat was primarily young backpackers, everyone drinking cheap beer and chatting and playing music. I could see why people opt for this experience vs taking a bus or plane.
We arrived in Pak Bang, our stop for the night, around 4 pm. The boat couldn’t get close to the steps because of the choppy water, so it dropped off on a nearby rock where everyone climbed their way up to the steps with all of their bags which was especially entertaining (dangerous) since most of the boat was very drunk and carrying their lives on their back. I’m happy to report everyone was accounted for and no one fell in.
I discovered my accommodation for the night was not included in the package I bought. I just stopped at the first place I found, about nine USD for the night. It wasn’t luxury, but the bed was comfortable. The bathroom was filled with ants and a resident gecko, but I considered this a vast improvement from last night’s black beetles.
Day 3
I was pretty burnt out from yesterday’s drinking and decided to find a less crowded, less rowdy boat to rest.
Since I had spent the day before chatting and drinking away, I didn’t notice too much of the scenery. Laos is beautiful. So much of the land along the river feels untouched. What settlements do exist are temporary tents, houseboats, and bamboo huts. Another thing I hadn’t noticed – the slightly terrifying whirlpools. The Mekong River is full of these whirlpools that the slow boat captains carefully avoid and feel like something out of a video game. We stopped at several villages along the way to pick up/drop off supplies, and you can see kids waiting along the coast for the boat, waving to all of the tourists as we go by.
We finally landed in Luang Prabang around five pm, climbed our way up the steps, and smashed into a tuk-tuk. Another twenty-minute walk later, I finally made it to my cozy, air-conditioned guesthouse.
Am I glad I did it? Absolutely. Though I can’ say I would do it again.
Ants and a gecko better?!!! 😳